Buyer's Guide

FLSUN Super Racer Upgrades: Paid and Free

In this article I will share some of my favorite FLSUN Super Racer upgrades which improve this already capable delta printer. Before upgrading anything to your printer, I recommend checking the 3D Printer Upgrades for Beginners article to better understand when and why to upgrade your machine.

As always, before jumping in the 3D printer upgrades train, I recommend reading the 3D Printer Upgrades for Beginners: When and Why? article to have a better understanding about how upgrades can improve the print quality of your 3D printer.

FLSUN Super Racer Paid Upgrades

Magnetic PEI flex plate

Addin a Magnetic PEI flex plate is probably one of the best upgrades you can do to any printer because it eliminates any kind of adhesion issues you might have. While this is one of the more expensive upgrades, I think it’s totally worth it for the FLSUN Super Racer, especially if you plan to print fast. I previously reviewed the ENERGETIC double-sided PEI flex plates so check the article to learn more about these print surfaces.


Besides improved adhesion, it’s much easier to remove prints when they are complete. Just remove the PEI sheet and with a quick bend, the print will pop right off. For me, adding a PEI sheet is one of the best FLSUN Super Racer upgrades to be made.

The magnetic PEI flex plate can be bought from the following websites:

Dual 5015 radial fans

I also mentioned in my FLSUN Super Racer review that the included 35mm radial fans are underpowered compared to the printer’s capabilities. You could push the print speeds much further with better part cooling and that’s why I upgraded my FLSUN Super Racer with dual 5015 radial fans. These fans do a better job in pushing a larger volume of air over your print, helping the printed layers to cool faster.


When purchasing fans, I recommend to always buy dual ball-bearing variants. They are more expensive, but they last longer and it’s especially important to have superior quality fans when printing fast. Regular sleeve bearing fans can quickly fail because of the quick movements done by the printer.

In my opinion, installing dual 5015 radial fans is one of the mandatory FLSUN Super Racer upgrades because this is the main limiting factor when printing fast with this printer.

Dual bearing 5015 24V radial fans can be bought from the following websites:

Bi-metal heat break

The FLSUN Super Racer uses a PTFE lined heat break which is only good for up to ~240C until the PTFE tube starts to degrade. Besides that, it’s more susceptible to clogging because if your PTFE tube is not pressed against the nozzle correctly, molten filament can leak and cause a clog.

If you are looking to upgrade the heat break to an all-metal variant, I recommend looking for a quality bi-metal heat break. This kind of heat break has a much better thermal performance and can actually help with reducing retraction values. Plese note that these heat breaks are more fragile, so take extra care when installing one. I previously reviewed multiple bi-metal heat breaks and most of them worked well.

Trianglelab Bi-Metalic Heatbreak (3)

If you are concerned about their longevity, then you can also get a titanium heat break which is sturdier and less expensive, but the thermal performance is a bit worse compared to the bi-metal variant. Don’t forget that you need to puchase the smooth variant, not the threaded version.

Bi-metal heat breaks can be bought from the following websites:
Slice Engineering

Volcano heat block with quality nozzle

As you know, the included Volcano-like heat block is not as big as an original Volcano variant. While this works, I recommend purchasing a full-size Volcano heat block which is bigger and can hold the full nozzle inside it. That way, your flow rate will be increased.

Plated Copper Volcano Heat Block

At the same time, I also recommend purchasing a better Volcano nozzle. The included nozzles are fine, but you can get much better machined nozzles for just a few dollars. You can read my Ultimate Nozzle Comparison article to learn more about the available nozzles.

Volcano heatblocks can be bought from the following websites:

Better PTFE tube

If you are looking to have a bit more control over your filament and extrusion quality, and lower your retraction values, I recommend purchasing a PTFE tube with better tolerances. The most popular PTFE tube is made by Capricorn and it’s quite good. But if you are looking for something cheaper, there are a few options available online which are of similar quality.


The main reason you would upgrade the PTFE tube is to have the filament a bit more constrained inside it. That way, retractions and extrusion is more accurate.

PTFE tube can be bought from the following websites:

Direct-Drive extruder

On a Delta printer, it’s really important to minimize the weight on the effector, to be able to print fast and without printing artifacts. But I’ve seen an interesting mod online when a SR user installed the Sherpa Mini extruder in a direct drive configuration.

Sherpa Mini V1 | FLSUN Super Racer Upgrades: Paid and Free

Considering the reduced weight of the Sherpa Mini, and all the benefits of having a direct drive extruder, I think it might be worth it. I will order a Sherpa Mini and perform the same upgrade soon.

The Sherpa Mini extruder can be bought from the following websites:

FLSUN Super Racer Free Upgrades

Better part cooling ducts

If you want to upgrade the cooling capabilities of the FLSUN Super Racer, then you need to upgrade the fans. And you can’t do that without also printing some air ducts for them. I printed this dual 5015 fan mount and the upgraded air ducts. This combo works well for me, and the fan airflow is much improved compared to stock.

Printed hotend effector housing

While the stock hotend cover is fine, you could print a modified housing for it which provides a bit more bracing to the top of the hotend. Besides that, the back side is open to improve airflow and allow air to pass easily over the heatsink.

If you’re planning to install Klipper firmware, this effector housing is helpful because it also comes with an ADXL sensor mount which is required for calibrating the input shaper/resonance compensation feature.

Klipper firmware

Klipper firmware can be considered a free upgrade if you already have a Raspberry Pi laying around. You can read more about the process of installing Klipper on the FLSUN Super Racer in my guide. In a few words, installing Klipper will add Wi-Fi capabilities to your printer, a Web GUI interface which can be used to control it, and the possibility of pushing the print speeds faster, without losing print quality.

While the stock Marlin Firmware works quite well, I started to get used to having web controls for my printers, and Klipper is also really nice to work with. So, if you’re feeling adventurous, then make sure you give it a go.

Wrapping up

Hopefully, this article helped you find some FLSUN Super Racer upgrades suited for your machine. I also recommend checking the Essential 3D Printing Tools for FDM and Resin 3D Printers. You might find some helpful tools for your day-to-day 3D printing needs. If there’s any useful upgrade I’ve missed, feel free to leave a commend below.

If you want to chat, then feel free to join the 3DPrintBeginner Discord Forum where there’s a dedicated FLSUN section.

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Latest Replies

  1. Just had a quick question concerning the heat breaks. Do the ones listed work with the stock heat block, or is the upgrade to a full volcano required to use them? Currently having a leak issues with the slice copperhead c-e

  2. Yes, they should work. Ensure that the threads in the heatblock are clean, and tighten the nozzle against the heat break.

  3. hi , i have a flsun sr and its my first 3d printer but i have been looking into upgrading the fans to the one suggested in the article because i have noticed that sometimes becuase of poor cooling, the first layer unsticks, however, i have not been able to find a detailed guide as to how install those fans so i was wondering if yall knew where i can find how to do it.

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  1. Please change the bimetallic heartbreak picture to the appropriate model (smooth) for the FL Sun Speed Racer as it’s very confusing that you use the wrong type…

  2. Your amazon link for the volcano heat block seems to be wrong. It takes you to some hot ends.

  3. Hey ! Thanks for your articles. Great quality ! Is it normal that the discord link is expired ? I can’t join the discord

  4. So, I upgraded to a full volcano block and a bimetal heatbreak, but.. the full volcano is longer than the one it ships with. This means that the ducts that cool the plastic now point directly on the nozzle and block. This combined with the upgraded fans is causing my printer to struggle to maintain temperatures. Only solution I can think of is to undo the changes, print longer ducts, and then redo the modifications. Did you have these kinds of issues when upgrading the volcano block? If so, what did you do differently to avoid this?

    1. There are multiple ducts available to print.
      Considering that you need to print them in PETG or ABS, you can do that without part cooling, or with the stock ones.
      Just print slower to allow enough time for the layers to harden.

  5. For the radial fans did you have to replace the connectors so you can hook to stock connectors on the printer?

  6. Just a heads up. The Amazon link for the bimetallic heat break is for a shorter length than the SR needs. The other vendor’s links look correct.

  7. I’ve upgraded to the full size volcano heat block today and a quality nozzle (using the original heat break) but now i’m getting Thermal Runaway errors on every other print.
    Any Ideas?

  8. Hey I bought the sunrise heat block you linked but I can’t get it to fit in the chassis, it seems too long compared to the heat block it shipped with. Am I missing something? I didn’t see where I could select a size.

      1. I used this heat block, sorry for the long link I don’t have any formatting options. Basically, even though the stock heat block LOOKS like a volcano its actually shorter in one dimension, and therefore a real volcano doesn’t seem to fit in the metal plate which the arms attach to.

          1. Figured out the problem, new heat break I ordered is too short. Gonna swap back to the original break and try again tomorrow

  9. Thanks for the great article!

    So i ended up swapping out my oem extruder for an OMG v2s F1, and it works so well! Only had to inverse the polarity of the extruder stepper because of hole alignment on the filament sensor. Overall a solid upgrade 😁

    Went with an estep of 400 if anyone else is planning to use one of these with their SR.


    I have upgraded to bimetal break then to an actual e3d block and nozzle.. now when i try to print my nozzle crashes into my bed. It has destroyed my PEI sheet. it does the auto calibration just fine and i can set Z offset and press save,, but once the print starts it goes to hell,,