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Ender 6 Direct Drive Conversion with BIQU H2 Extruder

In my Ender 6 review, I mentioned that having a direct drive extruder could improve the printer speed and quality. So, designed an Ender 6 direct drive mount and converted the printer by using the excellent BIQU H2 extruder.

Why convert the Ender 6 to direct drive?

I previously covered the main benefits for upgrading any printer to direct drive in my Direct Drive Extruder Buyer’s Guide, but here are the main reasons why I did it on the Ender 6.

Installing the BIQU H2 extruder on the Ender 6 provides much better filament control due to the short filament path it has. This improves print quality and allows the use of less retraction distance.

When you install the BIQU H2, the hotend is also improved, even though the stock heatbreak is still PTFE lined.

Finally, you will be able to print flexible filaments like TPU and TPE with better quality and faster print speeds.

Ender 6 results with Klipper and BIQU H2 extruder

This is the print quality you can achieve, by upgrading the Ender 6 with a BIQU H2 extruder and installing Klipper.

Calibration cubes (200%)

These calibration cubes were printed with different speeds and settings. The first one was printed right after installing the H2 extruder with no calibration.

The second cube was printed at the same speed, but with tuned pressure advance and input shaper. This is the cleanest cube I was able to print at this speed and this will be my “daily use” configuration.

The third cube was printed at 130mm/s with the calibration values tuned to see if I can push the speeds a bit further, but the printer moves a bit too much for my liking and the print quality decreased.

All the speeds for internal and external walls were set to 100mms and the infill was set to 130mm/s for all three cubes.

  • Material: Sunlu Grey PLA
  • Layer Height: 0.2mm
  • Nozzle Temperature: 215C
  • Bed Temperature: 60C
  • Print Speed: 100 mm/s
  • Print Time: ~55 minutes


Because I can’t test a printer setup without printing a 3D Benchy, I used the same “daily use” settings like I used on the cube and started the print. It finished in around 37 minutes and I’m quite happy with the quality I was able to get from this setup.

  • Material: Sunlu Grey PLA
  • Layer Height: 0.2mm
  • Nozzle Temperature: 215C
  • Bed Temperature: 60C
  • Print Speed: 100 mm/s
  • Print Time: ~37 minutes

Torture Toaster

This was the ultimate test for the Ender 6 running the BIQU H2 extruder. It was printed at 100mm/s with 4000 acceleration and took ~7 hours. I wasn’t expecting the print quality to be this good considering the speed it was printed at.
All the moving parts work as expected, and I was able to move the 0.3 mm tolerance indicator which is decent. With a bit more tweaking I think 0.2 will be possible.

  • Material: Gembird SkyBlue PLA
  • Layer Height: 0.2mm
  • Nozzle Temperature: 215C
  • Bed Temperature: 60C
  • Print Speed: 100 mm/s
  • Print Time: ~7 hours


To install the BIQU H2 on your Ender 6, you need to have the following:

  1. BIQU H2 Extruder
  2. Printed mount for BIQU H2 and H2 5015 Fan bracket (this one takes less space)
  3. Extra thermistor (optional)
  4. Klipper firmware (recommended)
  5. BIQU H2 Klipper Config

Before you begin

Before you begin

Please note that converting your Ender 6 to direct drive requires some experience with 3D printers and hardware. This is not a trivial task for beginners, and you may break your printer during the process.

Read the full guide carefully and follow this guide only after you properly understood all the steps involved. If you have questions before starting, leave a comment and wait for a reply.

I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to your printer by following this guide. You are doing this on your own responsibility.

Steps to install the BIQU H2 on Ender 6

Remove the stock hotend

This step is easy. First, remove the three front screws and uninstall the front fan cover, then unscrew the hotend.
In the image below, you can see how I removed the Spiral Tower Hotend in preparation.


Carefully remove the thermistor and heater cartridge and move to the next step.

Install the printed adapter

It’s now time to install the printed adapter. It’s installed using only two screws and it is stable enough to be used even at high speeds.

image 3 | Ender 6 Direct Drive Conversion with BIQU H2 Extruder

Attach the BIQU H2 to the adapter

To attach the BIQU H2, you will need four M3x10mm screws. Two for the top side of the extruder, and two for the bottom.

Install BIQU H2 | Ender 6 Direct Drive Conversion with BIQU H2 Extruder

Install the heater cartridge and thermistor

It’s important to note the block orientation I used to the BIQU H2 extruder. This will allow you to install the part cooling duct I linked and you will also be able to route the cabled to the back of the extruder.

Install the heater cartridge and thermistor | Ender 6 Direct Drive Conversion with BIQU H2 Extruder

Please note that the stock thermistor doesn’t have a metallic housing. If you have a spare thermistor, you can replace it and install it. If not, you can use the stock thermistor with some boron nitride paste for better thermal transfer, but it’s extremely important to secure it in place so it doesn’t move inside the block. I also recommend printing a temperature tower to make sure the temperature readings are correct.

Re-wire the fans

Because the BIQU H2 uses a 35mm fan, you will also need to re-wire it. The easiest way to do it is by cutting the old fan, and splicing the wires with these handy heat shrink solder tubes. Of course, you can use any kind of method to re-wire the fans, but make sure you do it properly.

Unfortunately, I did not document this step, but it’s not hard to do. Just respect the correct polarity and if needed, use a multimeter to confirm it.

Level the bed and adjust the Z offset knob

Because the BIQU H2 extruder sits a bit higher compared to the stock hotend, we need to adjust the Z offset. I recommend you remove the spring and adjust the nut accordingly.

Z offset adjustment knob ender 6 | Ender 6 Direct Drive Conversion with BIQU H2 Extruder

This is how the extruder should look like when the installation is complete.

Firmware changes

Set the correct E steps

As with any new extruder, it’s important to set the new E steps according to the gear ratio used. In this case, the BIQU H2 extruder needs 932 steps/mm which translates to a rotation_distance value of 3.4334 for Klipper. Just open the printer.cfg file and update the value accordingly. If you are running Marlin, you should update the e-steps using Pronterface.

image 2 | Ender 6 Direct Drive Conversion with BIQU H2 Extruder

If you want, you can also download my Klipper printer.cfg which already has this setting configured and also other calibration values. But as always, your printer might be different so you might need to adjust it.

PID tune the hotend

I previously covered the PID tuning process in another article, but if you are running Klipper firmware, you need to PID tune using the following command:


This command will start the tuning process. When completed run the SAVE_CONFIG command to update the printer.cfg file with the new values. If you are running Marlin, use this guide to PID tune your hotend.

Adjust the build volume

With the part cooling fan linked to this guide, you lose a bit of space on the Y axis. Instead of 260×260, the new build volume will be 260×220. This can be edited in the configuration file (if you use Klipper) but for Marlin, the firmware will need to be re-compiled.

image 4 | Ender 6 Direct Drive Conversion with BIQU H2 Extruder

IdeaMaker Profile for Ender 6 running Klipper and BIQU H2 extruder

To make things easier, I also uploaded my final daily-use IdeaMaker profile. It’s tuned for PLA and it runs well with my Klipper config, so feel free to give it a go.

IdeaMaker Profile – Ender 6 – PLA – Klipper & BIQU H2

This profile can be used with other direct drive setups, but the retraction settings will need to be adjusted accordingly.

Wrapping up

Hopefully, this guide helped you install the BIQU H2 on your Creality Ender 6. If you encounter any issues, feel free to leave a comment below, and I will do my best to help you.

If you are looking for other interesting upgrades, check out my Ender 6 Upgrades: Paid and Free article.

You can also join the 3DPrintBeginner Forum where there’s a dedicated category for Creality 3D printers.

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  1. So I configured everything according to the guide, however I’m unable to get my extruder to work. It does nothing when I send the extrude gcode command to it. I’m certain I have it wired correctly so I don’t know what the issue is. Do you have any idea how I can figure out what’s going on?>

  2. Have you set the hotend temperature to ~200C before extruding?
    The extruder will not work with a cold hotend

  3. Avatar for JohnS JohnS says:

    I have this same problem. I double checked all the settings and they are correct plus I am up to temp before i try to extrude. I tried using the console and the GUI but the motor sounds as if it engages but doesn’t move.
    This set up was working awesome right before I installed Klipper.
    Any thoughts?

  4. I have installed the Biqu H2 extruder (not yet the Klipper). So in the Marlin menu when i Feed the filament there comes something out. Nice. But when i do a test print, the print hangs on “heating”. Whats amazing me is that the temperature of the hotend fluctuates so much. When the selected temp is 215, it swings from 222 to 209. What can i do next to get printing?

  5. Solved, You have the calibrate the PID when you change something in the “heat department”.
    Another thing was that the heat cartridge was upgraded from 40W to 150W. The standard marlin firmware can’t handle that. It’s PID method is just to slow. I installed the 40W back and migrated to Klipper/Supersliser. It works now like a charm.

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Avatar for 3DPrintBeginner Avatar for lobovegano Avatar for JohnS Avatar for lamello


  1. Where do i have the main cable (the colorful) for the direct drive? I don’t see any slot for this at the main platine..

  2. Another thing I noticed is that klipper doesn’t work well with the default settings for the stock thermistor that comes with BIQU H2 extruder. They use betha curve approximation, and this approximation gives an enormous error, like maybe 25-30 centigrades or more. It made printing ABS almost impossible – anything like a bit of overhang would just not print – even the top layers after a pretty dense infill. Along with other issues. I found the solution by chance when I replaced BIQU H2 stock thermistor with PT1000, and suddenly I worked so perfect!!!
    PT1000 is a really precise stuff, but the stock thermistor should also work fine if you either pick the correct default settings or calibrate it and put adc_temperature/resistance curve points.

    1. Did you put the PT1000 connected on the stock motherboard of the ender 6?
      I have a PT100 (that comes with the H2 500 kit), and since it is a thermocouple, how can I connect it to the Ender motherboard?

  3. The wires that are plugged into the top of the BIQU, the ones that came with it, where does the other end (The black, 4-pin, end) plug in? What’s the process for this. It was completely left out of the guide. I feel like a lot more pictures and more steps/information would’ve been helpful in this guide. A lot of it may of gone without saying to an experienced person, like this wiring. A lot of us have never upgraded any of this. Just some constructive criticism! Keep doing the good deeds!

    1. good question – i have the same Problem. The Dupont Pin has to go to the Mini Board on the Extruder Port. BUT the pins are in another order – and i dont have a clue which is right

    2. Hello, Do you have an answer for the connection? I need to know how to connect step motor of Biqu H2 to ender6? Thanks.

    3. Yes i also have problem with wire Did you change any position on this end? i see difrent color than my.

  4. Hi thank you very much for the tutorial it is super helpful. I’d just like to know if it is possible to do the same direct drive upgrade without using klipper? is it the same process without the klipper part? Thanks!

  5. Hello, could you provide the file with the tilted fan (which i think is the original ender 6 fan?), I cannot find this file on the internet. Thank you! great tutorial!

  6. I feel like the stock fan that cools the hotend on my Ender 6 is different that the one you use in this guide. Did you get a new fan for this set up or did they start sending the Ender 6 with a different fan?

      1. I did end up getting the same kind of fan, is there a specific reason why it has to be rewired? They both seem to be 2 pin connectors, and if I rewire them I need to just splice the wires from the new fan to the wires from the old fan?

  7. Hello,
    Do you probably have a pinout scheme for the extruder stepper motor cable? They are shipping it with JST on one end and dupont on the other end. The original cable that connected stock extruder had middle wires switched places. Maybe it is only my printer. But when I try to switch middle wires of H2 it produces very scary noise during operation. If I don’t switch the middle wires, it seems to operate OK at first, but becomes very clicky when retracting. I set 1mm retracts with 25 mm/s. Lowering it to 15 mm/s helped a little bit but not much. So I thought that probably it is the wiring.
    The other idea I had is a filament. I was using 4% glass fiber filled ABS, so maybe the grip wasn’t too strong.

    1. It seems I was using pressure advance feature with the stock extruder and didn’t remove it after installing BIQU H2, and that was the cause of severe clicking I had. Once I disabled pressure advance, the issue is gone, and the extruder works like a charm! I would have to perform pressure advance callibration once more.

  8. Hello, I was wondering, since we’re switching to a direct extrusion now, we don’t have to use the original filament feeder with the PTFE tube right? I can just have the filament go straight into the BIQU H2?

  9. Hi, thanks for the great tutorial. You mentioned that we can download your printer.cfg but I can’t find the link. I wanted to give it a try…

  10. the download link for the fan bracket does not work.

    and you got a little bug in your PID_Calibrate. 2150 degrees is a bit much;)

    otherwise a very great guide as always!

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