Artillery Sidewinder X1 calibration guide
I noticed that there are a lot of people who experience Z banding, inconsistent extrusion or other issues in their prints. In my Sidewinder X1 review i went over some first checks a user should do when receiving and installing the printer for the first time.
In the following Sidewinder X1 calibration guide i will try to go over some of the tweaks i did to get consistent results and nice finish on my prints.
Extruder screw is too tight / too much pressure on the filament
A common issue i noticed on the Sidewinder X1 is the amount of pressure the idler lever puts on the filament. This is also the cause for a lot of broken extruder idler levers i see online.
The screw from the extruder should be tightened just enough so the filament does not slip from the gear.
A good indication that the extrurer has enough pressure for the filament is when you try to pull it out without pushing the lever. If the extruder gear is also spinning, then it’s good enough. The gear marks caused by the compression on the filament should be barely visible.
It is important to check the idler lever screw before performing the extruder calibration as this can have an effect on your results.
A really important step in the Sidewinder X1 calibration is the extruder. Matt’s Hub has a nice guide where it describes the steps of calibrating the extruder this. Basically, you need to measure 120mm of filament on a fixed point from your printer, and then extrude 100mm.
When finished, you measure the remaining filament not extruded and calculate the new extruder steps according to the guide. It’s a good idea to do this twice in order to confirm that the first measurement produced the expected results.
The original firmware has EEPROM save disabled, but this value can be set at slicer level in the start G-Code.
The value i use for the extruder: M92 E445.18
Flow rate calibration
Next thing on the list is calibrating the flow rate. This operation further calibrates the extrusion amount and contributes to having good dimensional accuracy of the prints. When calibrating the flow rate i like to use the guide from desiquintans because there’s a handy calculator for this.
A test cube with 2 walls needs to be printed at a relative slow speed and then measure the wall thickness. I usually print the cube at ~40mm/s and 200C for PLA with part cooling on.
It is important to use the same settings for this test print as you would use when printing other items. That way you get a consistent result. I also print this cube twice to make sure i get the expected results after modifying the flow rate in the slicer.
I also recommend measuring the cube walls twice and entering the values in the calculator. That way, you get more accurate results by minimizing measuring errors.
On my profile, i use 0.48 line size and after calibration the flow rate i get is 0.97 and i set it in my slicer.
Check for binding or bent Z rods
For quality prints and good layer lines the Z rods need to move freely. This can be achieved by having them properly lubricated and making sure there is no binding in their movement. On each of my printers, lubricating the rails is one of the first things i do.
I take some lubricant on a piece of filament or tooth pick and carefully put some on the Z rods.
With the X gantry homed, i apply lubricant on both rails then raise the gantry to the top of the machine. Then, i apply some lubricant again and lower it.
To make sure everything is greased properly i perform this movement a few times. Please note that the lubrication is done only on the first movement. The rest of the lubrication movements are done without adding more.
After this process is finished, i disable the motors and manually spin the Z rods. You can easily feel if there’s any binding if you spin the rods slowly.
If after the lubrication you can feel a bit of binding, i recommend you remove the Z rods from the printer and visually inspect them to make sure they are straight. You can also take the rods and try to roll them on a flat surface (like a glass table). If the rods are not rolling freely it means that there’s a bow in them and you can try to straighten them.
The X axis is not parallel to the bed
Inconsistent layer lines can be also caused by the X axis not being parallel to the print bed. If the Z nuts are not installed at the same height on both ends of the gantry, the X axis will not be level.
In order to fix this, and make sure the X axis is level, i used the Z-Height Blocks i printed for my CR-10s PRO.
First, the screws from the synchronization belt pulleys should be loosened in order for the Z rod to spin freely.
Next, the Z-height blocks need to be seated on both ends of the X gantry making sure they touch the bottom part of the extrusion. It is recommended to place the block next to the bed, on top of the metal base.
If the gantry is not flush with the blocks, then you need to adjust the eccentric nuts. Make sure you don’t over-tighten the wheel on the extrusion. The wheel should put pressure on the extrusion just enough so you can hardly spin it with your fingers.
This applies to all of the wheels installed on the printer.Finally, when everything is level, re-tighten the belt pulleys and level the bed.
The stepper motor couplers are not installed properly
When i received my Sidewinder X1 i noticed that the stepper motor couplers were not installed correctly from the factory. The flexible couplers are designed to allow some deviation between the motor shaft and the Z rod and compensate for the misalignment of the two.
On my printer, the Z rod and the motor shaft were touching and the couplers were not doing their job.
In order to fix this issue, you need to loosen the screws from the couplers and manually raise the Z rods for about 0.5 mm, then tighten the screws again.
If the operation is done correctly, you should be able to manually compress the coupler and see some movement.
This is an important step on making sure that the Z rods are properly installed and the stepper motor vibration or misalignment is not translated directly into the Z axis.
Temperature variations caused by improper PID tuning
If all of the previous steps were checked, a PID tuning needs to be performed. I covered this topic in a previous article where i covered the hotend and heatbed PID tuning process.
The end result should be a constant temperature of the hotend nozzle and bed. Variations in these temperatures can lead to having layer lines that look different.
The values i use for the hotend: M301 P14.74 I0.99 D54.66
The values i use for the heatbed: M304 P244.21 I45.87 D325.08
Printing temperature is not set properly
The Sidewinder X1 comes with a Volcano hotend. This improves performance when printing fast with a large nozzle size. But when printing PLA, the Volcano can be a bit too much.
The added length of the nozzle can melt filament better, so you may be surprised that your filament can print better if you lower the temperature a bit.
On my other printers, i print Devil Design PLA at around 200C-205C depending on the speed. On the Sidewinder X1 i noticed that i can get better results when printing at 185C-190C.
In order to get the best possible results, you need to print a temperature tower and choose the best temperature according to the print quality.
I prepare a G-Code file that can be printed directly from the Sidewinder X1. The temperature will change gradually from 180C to 220C.
When the print is finished, choose the temperature with best surface finish, overhang and bridging.
To get the most accurate results, you should print this temperature tower after calibrating extruder and flow.
Feed rate and Acceleration are set too high in the firmware
Setting the feed rate and acceleration settings properly is another important step in the Sidewinder X1 calibration process. The default values that come from the factory are a bit too much, and i lowered them a bit.
The values i use for the feed rate: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z20.00 E40.00
The values is use for the acceleration: M204 P800.00 R10000.00 T2000.00
Setting a proper Linear Advance Value
Linear Advance is a feature from Marlin firmware that improves extrusion quality and eliminates over-extrusion at the end of a layer line. It also allows faster printing with maintaining good quality.
Unfortunately, this option is not enabled in the stock firmware and in order to use it, a custom firmware needs to be installed.
Teaching Tech made a really nice video covering Linear Advance so i recommend you watch it to properly calibrate this feature.
I found out that a value of 0.16 works best for me. This can be added in the start G-Code of your slicer with the M900 K0.16 command.
Unlocking the Sidewinder X1 firmware
Most of my recommendations and calibration tips involve modifying values in the EEPROM. Unfortunatlely, the Sidewinder X1 arrived with EEPROM disabled and this makes things a bit harder to setting the machine properly.
I chose to install the Waggster Mod firmware that also adds BLTouch functionality and babystepping.
If you are not using the BLTouch (considering that the Sidewinder X1 heatbed is solid, there’s almost no need for it) you can install the firmware from robscar on Thingiverse. It unlocks the save to EEPROM functionality and also adds a few interesting features.
Please note that installing a custom firmware involves removing the printer cover, so a bit more experience is needed. Besides that, warranty will be void if you open the cover.
The installation process is well documented on the Thingiverse page so i recommend you follow it carefully.
Printing after Sidewinder X1 calibration
After you complete the Sidewinder X1 calibration, your printer should work much better and be more accurate. Here’s a video of my Sidewinder X1 printing Phil-A-Ment from Matterhackers at 50mm/s, at 0.15mm layer height in Devil Design Grey PLA (190c).
Prusa Slicer / Cura / Simplify 3D profiles for Sidewinder X1
Make sure you check back in a few days, when i will release new versions of Sidewinder X1 profiles with calibration values already set, for all three major slicers i use.
They still need a bit of tweaking.